We got drenched cycling to Dorking, but nothing could dampen our spirits on the way to see Steve Drake and his team at Sorrel Restaurant - to run through our Surrey Hills Joyride menu on the 30th of May.
The warm reception we received erased all memory of the sopping wet descent from Ranmore Common into the town.
Sorrel
“Don’t be fooled by the simple descriptions as these belie the complexity of the techniques used in Steve Drake’s creative modern dishes, where flavours, textures and temperatures come together in perfect harmony.”
Steve introduced us to Head Chef Ashley Chapman and Sous Chef Tom Cane, who shared the process and story behind each dish in our menu.
"Mise en place meets marginal gains." - a phrase we like to throw around at LeBlanq. The team had prepared an astonishing number of components, green coffee bean oil, smoked egg yolk, black garlic gel, dried scallops, confit San Marzano tomatoes, etc.
I could live off tomtoes, panzanella salads, chunks of bread dipped in marinara, arrabbiata, parmigiana, bruscetta. However, since visiting Tuscany last year to ride the Strade Bianche, I haven't tasted anything close to the quality of the tomatoes picked each day from the land we stayed on... until now.
Firstly, the San Marzano tomatoes are slowly cooked at a low temperature in the oven, then covered in oil, icing sugar, salt, garlic and thyme. I won't give away all of their secrets, but the result forms a kind of tapenade for one of Sorrel's asparagus dishes and is also strained to create a 'tomato tea', served with crusty dark sourdough and fresh Irish butter with salt flakes. Heaven.
“Can I fill my bidon for the ride home?”
If I could, I'd take this entire container home with me and dig until my spoon hit bottom, then I'd mop the sides with sourdough. It's that good.
Sous Chef, Tom, talked us through the process of each dish - from source, preparation, method, to plate. His passion and articulation was a joy to receive. Tom, please get yourself on TV. I could watch and listen to you all day.
Head Chef, Ashley, took control of the kitchen by carefully coaching and explaining to the younger or newer members of the team. He kept the morale high and the ship steering on course.
Steve Drake fills the kitchen with contagious energy. There's absolutely no pretentiousness inside the walls of Sorrel. Everyone is treated as equals. The importance of each role is understood, valued, and this recognition keeps the plates spinning.
Today was a menu run-through before our Surrey Joyride, so there was an element of experimentation. Steve and Ash plated a few dishes in different ways to see which one was most pleasing to the eye.
“Which one do you like?”
“That one started nicely, then the sauce pooled. So I like this one. It’s expressive and shows off the vibrant green colour of the smoked broccoli.”
The flavour journey of this dish was spectacular. The umami taste of the dark 'Lie du vin' sauce, the earthy sweetness of the smoked broccoli, the buttery soft turbot and the salty crunch of the nori.
Our first joyride of the year is going to be unforgettable.
Now to cycle back home in the rain. After such a great experience, I'm not even bothered. Bring it on.
Gareth Winter
LeBlanq Digital Content Manager
